Maxillaria.

They are mostly Epiphyte, rather large in size, but some are Terrestrial or even Lithophyte.

 But the showy Brazilian orchid Maxillaria picta can equally be found in the higher parts of a tree as found growing on rocks, as long as the humidity of the air is high enough.

LIGHT:

1500-2500 fc Maxillaria  alliance genera grow well in moderate  light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it's full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. The purplish tint indicates proper lighting for thesetypes. Most members of this alliance can be successfully grown, and lowered, under lights. In very mild climates, most members of this alliance can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter.

TEMPERATURE:

The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the Oncidium Alliance are 75°-85°F. (24°-3O° C) during the day and 55°-6O°F. (13°-16° C) at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45°F (10°C) and up to 100°F ( 38° C) for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased or damage can occur

WATER:

Maxillaria alliance enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a two or three week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before re watering . In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth.

FERTILIZER:

Maxillaria  Alliance plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the Spring through early Fall, fertilizing every seven days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Maxillaria Alliance plants happy. In the late Fall through Winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice.   The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-20-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark.  The micro nutrients provide strength for the new growth and support for the flowers.

POTTING:

Maxillaria alliance do not resent being disturbed, so re potting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the container.

When dividing Maxillaria alliance plants, always divide into parts with four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks

TIPS:

When you purchase a new plant, always place it where you can watch it for a couple of weeks until it is acclimated to your area. Initially, water the plant thoroughly and place it in a bright location with good humidity.examine your plants on a regular basis. Always remove the dried sheathing from pseudobulbs to prevent buildup of moisture, and as a hiding place for insects. In nature, the breeze removes the sheath. In captivity, you must remove the sheath. The removal of the sheath also provides more surface for photosynthesis activity.

Also slugs and snails will dine on these plants. Following the label recommendations on your favorite insecticide will usually solve any insect problem. 70% isopropyl alcohol and dish soap make a good alternative insecticide for small outbreaks.

Catasetum

They are  Epiphyte

Catasetums are noteworthy for their unique dimorphic flowers. The male and female flowers are so morphologically different that John Lindley originally treated them as seperate genera!. They also display one of the most advanced pollination mechanisms which is outlined below.

Catasetums produce fattened, fleshy pseudobulbs and are deciduous. These characteristics suggest that attention must be given to watering practices and a dormancy requirement. The plants grown here require year 'round warm house conditions with good air circulation.

TEMPERATURE:

The plants can be grown at 75°-80°F. (25° Celsius) during the day, with temperatures falling to 60°-70°F. (18-21° Celsius) at night. Dormancy will occur in response to changes in day length, usually in the fall, and soon after flowering; temperatures need not be altered to induce or treat dormancy.

LIGHT :

should be strong, especially near the end of the growth period. Early in the annual growth cycle, plants will tolerate less light - from 1,500 to 3,000 foot-candles. Plants grow best with light levels of 3,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, or 1/4 to 3/4 full sun. As pseudobulbs mature, harden them by giving slightly more light

Catasetums require good light for strong healthy growths. As the pseudobulb matures, thought should be given to the outcome of male or female flowers and which is desired. Bright light promotes female flowers and shadier conditions promote male.

If your decision was for male flowers be sure to move your plant back into the higher light situation once the flowers have been initiated.

Catasetums can be grown with as much light as for cattleyas or as little as for phalaenopsis. However, growth is most vigorous under the brighter conditions and the heavier bulbs produced are capable of yielding more substantial inflorescences of better quality blooms. Generally, female flowers are produced in bright light; in some cases, near full sun conditions may be required to obtain this response. As the plants complete their flowering cycle, they will lose their foliage and require less light.

WATER:

is critical for producing large pseudobulbs and strong flowerings. Since these plants only grow for a short period, a great quantity of water must be stored by the plant. Water heavily as new leaves are forming. After the pseudobulb is mature, gradually reduce watering frequency. The leaves will yellow and start to fall. At this time watering should be stopped completely until new growth begins again. Water during this dormant period only if the plant shrivels severely; overwatering may cause the pseudobulbs to rot and die.

FERTILIZING:

 is very important for producing strong pseudobulbs. Use a high-nitrogen formulation (30-10-10) while plants are in active growth, slowly tapering off as pseudobulbs form. Bloom booster formulation (10-30-20) should be used in the fall except for plants that normally bloom in the spring.

Of course, as the plant uses more water, it can also use more fertilizer, preferably 20-20-20 at the rate of one teaspoon/gallon of water applied as frequently as once each week. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-20-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. We recommend Grow Mor fertilizers , which also have micro nutrients. The micro nutrients provide strength for the new growth and support for the flowers.

Plants need not be unpotted and dried out after flowering; however, do withhold water from plants in containers until growth begins in spring.

POTTING:

 is best timed to coincide with the start of new growth (s), usually in the spring. New roots will be produced quickly at that time, and plants will not experience any setback. These plants have vigorous root systems and like to have a rich and moist potting medium during their growing months. Many growers remove the plants from the growing medium during the resting period to ensure dryness during that time. Fine-grade orchid bark is common for smaller pots; medium-grade bark is used only on large plants. Sphagnum moss is used successfully for plants in many areas, as it provides tremendous water- and fertilizer- holding capacities. Some plants may be grown on slabs of treefern or other material, which makes it easier to keep them dry during dormancy; however, it is harder to keep them moist while growing. When well grown, these orchids can be divided down to one mature bulb and then bloom on the next mature growth.

TIPS

When you receive the plant, please remove all packing material carefully. Water the plant thoroughly and place it in a bright location with good humidity but out of drafts.

As catasetum spikes become 4"-6" long, begin careful staking which may be helpful in encouraging good flower arrangement on the developing inflorescence. Be certain to leave the plant facing the same direction during inflorescence development. Do not probe the male flowers at any time, for these may be accidentally emasculated, causing them to fold prematurely

RECOMMENDED READING 

• All About Orchids, by Charles Marden Fitch
• Encyclopedia of Cultivated Orchids, by Alex D. Hawkes
• Home Orchid Growing, by Rebecca Northen
• Orchid Care, by Walter Richter
• Illustrated Encyclopedia of Orchid Species, by Alec Pridgeon