Main characteristics for cultivating orchids

Contrary to popular knowledge that large is better, opt for as small a container as can comfortably contain the orchid. Earthenware pots are airy and they help to maintain the roots at a low temperature
 Epiphytes are orchids that grow on a bed (usually composed of branches from another plant) with no connection to the soil. This bed only provides the orchid's physical support; its water supply, nourishment and minerals are supplied by rainwater absorbed by its air roots. glazed potsThese orchids must be housed in containers that allow for draining; cork is preferable to plastic orglazed pots.
Terrestrials are orchids with underground members (root bulbs or root pipes) that grow on soil, and larger-sized containers are most adapted to figured the plant's moisture supply.

                                                

  Containers that safeguard moisture retention are most adapted for growing orchids

Fertilizers. Diseases.

The term "fertility" refers to the inherent capacity of a soil to supply nutrients to plants in adequate amounts and in suitable proportions. The term "nutrition" refers to the interrelated steps by which a living organism assimilates food and uses it for growth and replacement of tissue. Previously, plant growth was thought of in terms of soil fertility or how much fertilizer should be added to increase soil levels of mineral elements. Most fertilizers were formulated to account for deficiencies of mineral elements in the soil. The use of soilless mixes and increased research in nutrient cultures and hydroponics as well as advances in plant tissue analysis have led to a broader understanding of plant nutrition. Plant nutrition is a term that takes into account the interrelationships of mineral elements in the soil or soilless solution as well as their role in plant growth. This interrelationship involves a complex balance of mineral elements essential and beneficial for optimum plant growth.

Epiphytic orchids are grown either mounted on bark or in one of a variety of pots. Smaller epiphytes are often grown by tying them on to a block of rough cork oak bark with transparent nylon thread. The piece of bark can then be suspended from a wire mesh framework against the wall or from a rafter in the glasshouse and, if misted daily, the orchid will soon put out new roots over the surface of the bark. Firm tying is essential; if the plants are not held tightly against the bark, new roots do not easily adhere to it.
Compost
Many epiphytes grow well in pots filled with a standard epiphyte compost made up of: 5 parts bark, 1 part perlag and I part charcoal.
Three epiphyte mixes are used, all having the same ingredients, but in different degrees of coarseness. For small plants a mixture of fine bark, fine perlag and fine charcoal is used. For a very large plant a rather coarse mixture is more suitable. Medium-sized plants are
potted using a medium grade compost. The epiphyte compost is the subject of endless variation as growers like to experiment with a standard compost to make it more suitable for each individual plant. Peat or chopped sphagnum moss may be added to make the mixture more moisture-retentive, while the use of coconut husk fiber makes the mixture more open and fast-draining.

For tropical terrestrials, the grit and loam content of the compost is lower than that used for the temperate terrestrial orchids and the leaf mould and peat content is higher. Many forest and woodland orchids in the tropics have a shallow rooting system, which is limited to the layer of litter overlying the soil. Good drainage is essential.

 Caution: An excessivel high concentration of fertilizer will cause the plant to die. A moderate concentration of fertilizer will cause moderate growth and prevent the plant from flowering. It is recommended to use a mixture of different kinds of fertilizer.

 

10 Tips for Orchid Fertilizing.

  Water your orchid with fresh lukewarm water (never cold water and not warm water) weekly.

Don't fertilize a sick plant this only harmful

 Add fertilizer to the water every other week do not leave to the next time

Be sure you are flushing the excess fertilizer out of your media between feedings.

 If the tips of your plants become dry and start to turn black, it could be a sign of over fertilizing.

Don't add extra fertilizer to your plants to help them grow. this will not help.

Pour the fertilizer through the pot or over the media just like you were watering.

Make sure your water is lukewarm; don't use cold water not warm water.

Do not collect the fertilizer runoff and then use it on another plant this practice will spread diseases

Learn what kind of an orchid you have. Some have not required feeding during in this time.

 Watering

   Quality of the water:

 Tropical orchids growing in natural surroundings are accustomed to a quality water supply. Most orchids are highly sensitive to any salt content in water and should therefore be irrigated with rainwater collected in closed containers, alternatively with the drip collected from air-conditioners, or water obtained by reversed osmosis. When watering, to help wash away any mineral deposits and avoid salt build-up, let the water run freely through the pot.

Frequency:  The orchid bed type determines the frequency. A peat-moss bed drains speedily and efficiently, thereby avoiding rot. In winter, orchids should be watered once-weekly. In summer, up to twice-weekly, depending on their location, whether home or hot-house, irrespective of size

As a guideline, most orchids tolerate being too dry much better than they tolerate being too wet.

Never water in the early morning, especially not in winter, and never in late afternoon.

Never leave an orchid plant on a dish filled with water but on peat-moss alone and no water.

 Characteristic diseases                        

Petal Blight (botrytis cinerea) is the cause of black or dark-coloured spots on a orchid plant.

Rot appearing on the orchid petals is a result of watering in sunlight or heat, or at night.

Brown or white spots, or a closely-knit web of white spots on the leaves, are caused by aphids and acarids. These pests do not like water so, from time to time, spray a measured quantity of water on the leaves, or use an eco-friendly insecticide spray.

Leaf rot resulting from high levels of humidity or contamination caused by bacteria are apparent when leaves gradually turn yellow and resprouting degenerates, even turning black. A change in leaf colour or the appearance of spots might signify a virus for which no solution is available.

Non-appearance of blooms is both common and widespread, and is caused mainly by root rot, the causes being the use of excess fertilizer, a lack of effective draining, an old, unsuitable plant bed, and harmful fungi in the soil, an unsuitable temperature – and the most harmful, excessive watering.

 

                                              

Most orchids need to be repotted once every two years 

Additional pictures of diseases in orchids 

The bark or moss that the orchids are grown in gradually deteriorates

If repotting is not done, the bark or moss become decomposed and packed

   Under these conditions, roots are not properly aerated, drainage becomes blocked so there is too much standing moisture, and the plant eventually dies from asphyxiation and root rot

 Ideally: orchids should be repotted immediately after flowering    

  : Guidelines for plant rescue

 

 Disinfect all cutting tools.2) completely remove all damaged roots.3) Change the plant bed.4) Spray roots with pesticide/fungicide/bactericide, as required.5) Replant in a container providing better drainage, preferably clay.