CATTLEYA (They are  Epiphytes)

C. Dedicated to William Cattley, a 19th century English horticulturist: one of the earliest persons to build a collection of exotic orchids. This genus is called the "Corsage" Orchid

Cattleyas are among the most commonly grown orchids, and their culture is often used as the basis for comparison with other types of orchids.

The flowers in cattleya and their related hybrids come in many colors. Culture varies only slightly among most of these groups; this cultural information is a general guide to "standard cattleya" culture.

Like most other cultivated orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes, or air plants. Because they are epiphytic, they have developed water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and have large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen. They are accustomed to being dry at the roots between waterings, and therefore should be potted in a very porous, free draining medium.

Cattleyas are the orchids first brought to mind when orchids are mentioned and are among the easiest to grow. Through hybridization they are available in an assortment of bright colors as well as the popular white and purple and have also been miniaturized to be easily grown on windowsills.Cattleyas have the large flowers that are often used for corsages. They come in many colors and several sizes. Older varieties bloomed once a year, but newer hybrids bloom several times a year. Cattleyas require a bright window and watering when quite dry in the summer, and very little water but bright light during the winter dormant period.

   Light & Water

 Cattleyas and their relatives  require a good amount of light. They enjoyfull sun in the morning, but will require shading from about 11am-3pm; less shading will be necessary in the late afternoon. Their leaves should be a light green color, and a darker green color indicates too little sun. 

 Basically, cattleyas grow best when their potting medium becomes dry in between waterings. These plants are epiphytes in nature,  and are used to drying out between the rains of their natural habitat.

Temperature

 The ideal day temperature is 75-85  F,(20-30 C), while the ideal night temperature is 60-65  F,(16-18 C) . Occasional temperature extremes are tolerated if exposure is not prolonged.

Humidity

Cattleya enjoy moist air, requiring a minimum of 50-60% humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plant. Humidity should be increased with higher temperatures. The ideal humidity is between 55 and 85%, with as much ventilation or air movement as possible without any cold drafts. Humidity can be increased around the plant by placing the pot on an inverted saucer in a baking pan filled with pebbles, rock chips, etc., and water. Keep water level below top of pebbles so that the plant will not have "wet feet" from setting in water. Morning misting of foliage is also helpful, especially during periods of hot weather

Feeding & Repot

 Must be given to cattleyas on a regular schedule. In fir bark, a high-nitrogen (30-10-10) formulation, or a similar proportion, is used. High-phosphorus or bloom booster (10-30-20) formulation may be used occasionally (every 4 to 6 applications) to make sturdy growths and promote healthy blooming. When in active growth, plants need fertilizer every two weeks, and when not growing, once a month. Fertilizer can also be applied with every watering at one quarter recommended dilution. Thorough flushing with clear water every month is recommended to prevent buildup of fertilizer salts.  Cattleyas should not be repotted unless the plant have outgrown the pot (every 2 or 3 years) or when the potting medium begins to deteriorate. Or when the mixture become sour, does not drain rapidly and is invaded by snow mold or shows green mold on the surface. A coarse medium such as medium-grade Fir-bark, or coarse-grade Fir-bark will work well.

Tip: 

 Plants can be placed on trays of moist pebbles to help create local humidity.

CYMBIDIUM (They are  Epiphytes  And a few of them Terrestrial )

The Oriental cymbidiums have been in cultivation for centuries in China , Japan and Korea where they have been prized for their graceful leaves, dainty flowers and delicate fragrances. Most of the Oriental cymbidium require shaded areas or low light and constant moist surrounding. It is best to purchase plants with a minimum of three or more bulbs or larger if available. They may be a bit more expensive but they will adapt quicker and will bloom quicker compared to a 1 or 2 growth plants. On some occasions, the more exotic varieties such as the plants with the peloric flowers, dwarf varieties, and variegated forms are offered on a per growth basis due to their high cost. Plants in chinese vase are more expensive since you are also paying for the vases. Variegated Cymbidiums are judged in Oriental Orchid shows without any flowers

 Cymbidium have grass-like leaves and the flowers grow on a tall spike in the winter and early spring. They like a sunny, warm place in the summer and can grow outdoors in a container. In the fall they should be left outdoors until they have had a degree or two of frost, as the difference in temperature between night and day is what stimulates blooming.

Light & Water

 Your Cymbidium enjoys the morning and afternoon sun most, yet should be protected from the hot mid-day sun. A light green leaf with just a hint of yellow indicates the maximum amount of sun the plant can take, and a dark green leaf indicates not enough sun.

 Watering of Cymbidium is a delicate balancing act. They should not be allowed to go dry, yet they don't care for a soggy environment either. Watering once every seven to ten days is about right. As with everything else, special consideration must be given for the drying effects of varying ambient air temperature and humidity.

Compost

The  compost is rather similar and consists of: 3 parts bark, 3 parts coarse sphagnum peat, 1 part perlag, 1 part perlite, 1 part charcoal, plus a dressing of hoof and horn meal or 5 oz per bushel of Vitax Q4, a balanced general plant food.

Temperature

The ideal day temperature is 75-85  F,(20-30 C), while the ideal night temperature is 60-65  F,(16-18 C)  Cymbidium will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they get cool, mild night temperatures (between 50-65  F,(0-18 Celsius.). Cold weather, even down to 28  F,(-2 C) for a few hours each night, will not damage an acclimatized plant, but once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from temperatures below 35  F,(2 C ).Regardless, plants should always be kept free of frost.

Humidity

 Cymbidium enjoy moist air, requiring a minimum of 50-60% humidity in the immediate vicinity of the plant. Humidity should be increased with higher temperatures. The ideal humidity is between 55 and 85%, with as much ventilation or air movement as possible without any cold drafts. Humidity can be increased around the plant by placing the pot on an inverted saucer in a baking pan filled with pebbles, rock chips, etc., and water. Keep water level below top of pebbles so that the plant will not have "wet feet" from setting in water. Morning misting of foliage is also helpful, especially during periods of hot weather

Feeding & Repot in Short Movir

 High nitrogen fertilizers should be used from February until July, while low nitrogen fertilizers should be used from August until January. Feed "Weekly Weakly" (at 1/4 strength once a week).High nitrogen fertilizers (25-9-9) should be used from February until July, while low nitrogen fertilizers (6-25-25) should be used from August until January. Feed one teaspoon to a gallon of water once a month

 Repot every two to three years from February to June with a well-draining medium. Fine bark is suitable in mild summer climates, while a finer medium Orchid Mix works well in warmer summer areas.

 Short movie on Cymbidium

Cymbidium breeding

The two unforgettable names in Cymbidium breeding are that of H. G. Alexander of 'Westonbirt' and Lionel de Rothschild's . To these two gentleman we owe the finest of the early Cymbidium hybrids and for many of the stud palnts are still very much in use. Alexander's greatest contribution was the legendary hybrid , xC. Alexanderi 'Westonbirt' (Cymbidium eburneum x C . insigne ' Westonbirt'). It had lovely large white flowers -characters , all of which were easily transmissible . Due to the partial dominance of its white colour , it produced beautiful pastel shades, when crossed with coloureds . x C. Alexanderi ' Westonbirt' also gave rise to several fo the stud plants which are widely in use now, like x C. Rosanna Pinkie and x C. Balkis .

Apart from these pastel shades , highly coloured varieties were also greatly appreciated. To meet this demand dark reds like x C. Carisbrook, greens like x C. Baltic and amber yellows like x C. Marcia , were produced . Most of the Cymbidium species which figured prominently in breeding today's hybrid forms, come from the Indo-Malayan region , eg. C. eburneum, C. giganteum ,C. lowianum ,C. erythrostylum ,C. devonianum etc.

Miniature Cymbidiums are now very much in fashion . They have an appealing charm and are more manageable in size than ordinary Cymbidiums, which take up a great deal of space in the greenhouse . The species from which the present day miniatures are derived are mostly from Japan and China , with C. pumilum from Japan heading the list . Hybrid miniatures were first produced in England in 1944 (x C. Lois Sander x C. pumilum ) and later in 1955 in the United States (C. pumilum x C. Zebra).