ltniMiltoniopsis opsis

Miltoniopsis (They are  Epiphytes)

Miltoniopsis

LIGHT: 1000-2000 fc. For those without light meters, this is not deep shade, but is enough shade so that no shadow results when a hand is passed between the plant and the light source. It is about the same amount of light required by many Paphiopedilums, and a little less than needed by Cattleyas. Because the light requirement is low, Miltoniopsis are easy to grow under artificial lights if humidity is moderately high.

Miltoniopsis produce the most blooms when they receive as much light as they can tolerate without causing damage to the foliage. A slight pinkish tinge on the leaves indicates correct light levels, while red, yellow, or straw colored leaves indicate that light is too high. The sepals and petals of some Miltoniopsis tend to recurve when light is high. Flower quality often improves if plants are moved to lower light after the buds develop.

TEMPERATURE: Season temperature variation is minor. Days should average 80-85°F (27-29°C), and nights should average 60-64°F (16-18°C), with a diurnal range of about 20°F (11°C). Plants can tolerate temperatures higher than 90°F (32°C) for brief periods, especially if humidity is high and air movement is strong. Some growers successfully cultivate Miltoniopsis with Phalaenopsis at night temperatures near 68°F (20°C). Other growers report success cultivating plants with Cattleyas at 55-58°F (13-14°C). Although this appears confusing, it represents the range of temperatures found in the habitats of the three species used to develop the modern hybrids. However, we have found that our hybrids produce more and larger growths and more flowers if night temperatures do not fall below 60°F (16°C).

HUMIDITY: Daily humidity should average 70-80%, with late night maximums of 80-90% and afternoon minimums of 50-60%. If high winter humidity creates problems with condensation, humidity may be reduced slightly. However, strong air movement prevents condensation, even when humidity is high.

WATER: All Miltoniopsis species and their hybrids need to be kept evenly moist. They should never be allowed to dry out completely. This "evenly moist" instruction is not a phrase intended to keep beginners confused and feeling like outsiders. Rather, it is an attempt to describe a concept that new growers often find difficult to grasp when all they really want is an answer the deceptively simple question, "How often should I water this thing?"

Unfortunately, it is not a simple question. In fact, so many variables enter into determining watering frequency that there is no way it can be accurately answered. Some of the elements that influence watering frequency include the season, the average temperature and humidity both outdoors and inside the growing area, the day length, whether skies have been clear or cloudy, the type of medium used, the type of pot used, the size of the pot, how long since the plant was repotted, and the strength of air movement in the growing area. Consequently, each grower must learn to determine when their plant needs water. Some of the tried and true methods include lifting the pot and judging the weight, working a finger into the medium to feel for moisture, or simply judgement and experience.

Obviously, it is impossible to keep a plant evenly moist. The degree of wetness varies depending on when it was last watered, and as soon as the moisture varies, it is no longer evenly moist. Thus, new growers perceive a catch 22. Generally it means that the plant should always be kept damp, but not soggy. One explanation we found helpful suggests that evenly moist means that the plant should be watered today if the grower feels it will need to be watered tomorrow. Unfortunately, the grower is still left with the frustrating task of determining if the plant will need to be watered tomorrow.

In our growing area, adult Miltoniopsis in 4-5 in. (10-13 cm) pots which are filled with our fir bark mix are usually sufficiently moist when they are watered 2-3 times a week from spring into autumn. During very hot, dry periods in summer, however, plants may require daily watering. However, during our often damp, dreary winter weather, plants may need to be watered as infrequently as once every 2-3 weeks.

The only time Miltoniopsis should be slightly drier is immediately after potting, especially if they are repotted before new roots are growing. Regular watering should be resumed as soon as new roots begin to enter the fresh medium.

FERTILIZER: 1/4-1/2 recommended strength, applied weekly while the plants are actively growing. Most growers prefer to use a fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as 30-10-10, most of the time. However, once every 3-4 weeks, they recommend a fertilizer with less nitrogen and more phosphate such as 10-20-10. The periodic use of a high-phosphate fertilizer improves flowering.

REST PERIOD: Growing conditions should be maintained year-round. It is important to provide a 10-20°F (6-11°C) range between daily high and low temperatures. Water should be reduced slightly in winter, especially for plants grown in the dark, short-day conditions common in temperate latitudes, or if night temperatures in the growing area are cooler than 60°F (16°C). The plants simply do use as much water when light is low, days are short, or temperatures are cool. However, plants should never be allowed to dry out completely. If water is reduced, fertilizer should also be reduced until plants begin growing the next spring.

GROWING MEDIA: The fine, threadlike roots of Miltoniopsis plants are easily killed if the medium is too dry or too wet and soggy. The medium must drain well while remaining moist. Most growers prefer a fine-grade fir bark mixed with moisture retaining materials such as perlite or chopped sphagnum moss. In addition, some growers add materials such as charcoal, crushed oyster shells, peanut hulls, rice hulls, coarse peat moss, or shredded tree-fern fiber to their mix. These additives vary depending on the growers watering practices and the general conditions in the growing area.

Plastic pots are usually preferred since they retain more moisture, but drainage must be excellent. A layer of coarse bark in the bottom of the pot improves drainage. Also, drainage holes in plastic pots may be enlarged and extra ones added by melting with a hot soldering iron. The fumes from the melting plastic may be toxic, so this particular task should be done out-of-doors or in a well ventilated area.

Miltoniopsis are healthiest when repotted every year. Next to simply providing the basic requirements, annual repotting is probably the single most important action a grower can take to ensure success. Do not over pot! Plants should be placed in a small pot that is barely large enough to contain the roots and allow room for another year's growth. When repotting, do not simply "pot on" into a larger pot, leaving the rootball with the old, stale medium intact. All old medium should be removed, any damaged or diseased roots trimmed off, and the plant repotted using all fresh medium and a clean pot. Repotting is best done in autumn when new root growth begins, usually when the newest growths are about half mature. Repotting by early winter allows the plant time to become reestablished before the stress of hot, summer weather.

These general cultural recommendations should give growers who have been wary of Miltoniopsis the confidence to give them a try. Well grown plants soon begin producing multiple growths, each with several inflorescences. They are spectacular when in full bloom.

This article was provided by Charles and Margaret Baker.
Please visit their web site to find out about their Orchid Species Culture books, 

Mormodes (They are  Epiphytes and  Terrestrial )

Mormodes

LIGHT: should be strong, especially near the end of the growth period. Early in the annual growth cycle, plants will tolerate less light - from 1,500 to 3,000 foot-candles. Plants grow best with light levels of 3,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, or 1/4 to 3/4 full sun. As pseudobulbs mature, harden them by giving slightly more light.

TEMPERATURE: These orchids are native to hot tropical areas and grow during rainy summer months. During this growing period, day temperatures of 80 - 100 F(26-38 c) and night temperatures of 60 - 65  F (16-18 c) are beneficial. After growths mature, temperatures should be reduced to 55  F (14 c )at night, with day temperatures of 70 - 85 F (22 -30 c).

WATER: is critical for producing large pseudobulbs and strong flowerings. Since these plants only grow for a short period, a great quantity of water must be stored by the plant. Water heavily as new leaves are forming. After the pseudobulb is mature, gradually reduce watering frequency. The leaves will yellow and start to fall. At this time watering should be stopped completely until new growth begins again. Water during this dormant period only if the plant shrivels severely; overwatering may cause the pseudobulbs to rot and die.

Unfortunately, it is not a simple question. In fact, so many variables enter into determining watering frequency that there is no way it can be accurately answered. Some of the elements that influence watering frequency include the season, the average temperature and humidity both outdoors and inside the growing area, the day length, whether skies have been clear or cloudy, the type of medium used, the type of pot used, the size of the pot, how long since the plant was repotted, and the strength of air movement in the growing area. Consequently, each grower must learn to determine when their plant needs water. Some of the tried and true methods include lifting the pot and judging the weight, working a finger into the medium to feel for moisture, or simply judgement and experience.

Obviously, it is impossible to keep a plant evenly moist. The degree of wetness varies depending on when it was last watered, and as soon as the moisture varies, it is no longer evenly moist. Thus, new growers perceive a catch 22. Generally it means that the plant should always be kept damp, but not soggy. One explanation we found helpful suggests that evenly moist means that the plant should be watered today if the grower feels it will need to be watered tomorrow. Unfortunately, the grower is still left with the frustrating task of determining if the plant will need to be watered tomorrow

HUMIDITY: Daily humidity should average 70-80%, with late night maximums of 80-90% and afternoon minimums of 50-60%. If high winter humidity creates problems with condensation, humidity may be reduced slightly. However, strong air movement prevents condensation, even when humidity is high.

FERTILIZING: is very important for producing strong pseudobulbs. Use a high-nitrogen formulation (30-10-10) while plants are in active growth, slowly tapering off as pseudobulbs form. Bloom booster formulation (10-30-20) should be used in the fall except for plants that normally bloom in the spring.

POTTING: is best timed to coincide with the start of new growth (s), usually in the spring. New roots will be produced quickly at that time, and plants will not experience any setback. These plants have vigorous root systems and like to have a rich and moist potting medium during their growing months. Many growers remove the plants from the growing medium during the resting period to ensure dryness during that time. Fine-grade orchid bark is common for smaller pots; medium-grade bark is used only on large plants. Sphagnum moss is used successfully for plants in many areas, as it provides tremendous water- and fertilizer- holding capacities. Some plants may be grown on slabs of treefern or other material, which makes it easier to keep them dry during dormancy; however, it is harder to keep them moist while growing. When well grown, these orchids can be divided down to one mature bulb and then bloom on the next mature growth.

REST PERIOD: Growing conditions should be maintained year-round. It is important to provide a 10-20°F (6-11°C) range between daily high and low temperatures. Water should be reduced slightly in winter, especially for plants grown in the dark, short-day conditions common in temperate latitudes, or if night temperatures in the growing area are cooler than 60°F (16°C). The plants simply do use as much water when light is low, days are short, or temperatures are cool. However, plants should never be allowed to dry out completely. If water is reduced, fertilizer should also be reduced until plants begin growing the next spring.

 Prepared by: Education Committee, American Orchid Society